What Is Permed Hair?
Perming chemically alters your hair structure to form different types of curls or waves. The technique to straighten hair is called hair relaxation. It breaks down the disulfide bonds in your hair and gives it a new structure. There are different types of perms based on the techniques used:
How Perming Works
The disulfide bondsi Unique and strong chemical bonds that help keep the protein structures of the hair shaft together. in the hair are broken using reducing agents like thioglycolates and bisulfites (1). These reducing agents permeate through the cuticle and outer layers of the cortexi A thick layer located between the hair shaft and the medulla and makes up a large part of your hair pigment. to break the disulfide bonds. Alkaline agents are used to lift the cuticle scales so that the reducing agents can enter the cortex (1). The hair fibers are set in curlers or rods to give the hair the desired curl or wave pattern. Once the pattern sets in, the perming process in the hair fibers is neutralized using an oxidizing agent like hydrogen peroxide. The traditional style of perming was wrapping hair in rods. After that, the perming solution would be applied so the hair would set in curls or waves. Once the hair is set, the solution is rinsed off, and a neutralizer is used to stop the perming process. Over time, new formulas and techniques using different objects to give you a particular type of curl or wave. Let’s look at the different perming techniques.
Different Perming Techniques
1. Digital (Hot) Perm
With digital or hot perms, the hair is first processed with a relaxing treatment, which helps break the bonds in your hair. Then, your hair is shaped with heated curling rods. The thickness of the rods depends on how loose or tight you want your curls to be. Your hair is finally put in hot rollers that are attached to a device that helps regulate their temperature. This process can take up to four hours or more, depending on the length and thickness of your hair. With the digital perming method, you can get curls of varying lengths, which helps give you a very natural look. Your hair is usually straight while it is wet and curls up as it dries. This method was specifically designed for East Asian hair and only works for people with thick hair. The process is expensive. However, it is less damaging to the hair than other methods.
2. Cold Perm
Cold perms are the traditional way to perm your hair. In this process, your hair is first soaked with an alkaline solution. It is then tightly wound into small curls using rollers. The tight curls help shape your hair into tight ringlets, which are not possible to achieve with the digital perming method. These tight ringlets do not look natural at first, but over time, they will relax and look more natural. The process can take from 2 to 2.5 hours. The curls you achieve with this method remain curly even when wet or when you use a product. The process is more affordable than the digital method and works on almost all hair types. With the right care, a perm can last up to six months. Here are a few tips to help.
How To Care For Permed Hair
You also have to be careful while sleeping with permed hair. Cosmetologist Ghanima Abdullah suggests, “Having your hair tied up is one of the best ways to sleep on permed hair. It’s called a pineapple when you wear a silk scarf around the edges and have your curls up at the top. This helps to keep your curls from resting on the pillow and going flat. You’ll wake up to beautiful, bouncy curls.” The next question that might occur to you is, how do perms damage your hair? Scroll down to the next section to find out.
Do Perms Damage Hair?
Perms can leave your hair damaged, lifeless, and overprocessed. The cell membrane complex and endocuticlei The inner and elastic layer of a cuticle that may age and be subject to further damage due to chemical hair treatments. are the most vulnerable to chemical treatments (2). This happens if the perm is not done right. Hence, it is recommended to get perms professionally done. Perming induces hair reduction, which causes hair to swell and leads to damage. Not rinsing the perming solution may cause dandruff (3). Chemicals like hydrogen peroxide are known to cause hair damage.
Perming solutions for colored hair may be stronger than virgin hair. Be careful while choosing perming solutions when trying it at home. Most stylists will only let you get a perm done if your hair coloring requires one coloring process instead of multiple ones. If you have dry or brittle hair, it is better not to get a perm done. Perms use chemicals that can make your dry hair more prone to damage. They might also strip your hair of its natural moisture. It breaks your hair structure, which would damage dry hair. Perming short hair may be a little tricky. Picking the right wave or curl can make short hair look brilliant or too short. Perming solutions for oily hair can strip your hair of its natural oils. Perming solutions can also reduce hair elasticity by breaking and reforming bonds, making hair dry, brittle, and more prone to damage.
The lifespan of a perm may vary depending on how you are caring for it. So, if you have been wondering how long does a perm last, find your answer in the next section.
How Long Does A Perm Last?
Getting a perm done can take at least three hours. For short hair, perms last for at least three months. For long hair, they may last longer, going up to five to six months. Just like every other hair chemical treatment, there are pros and cons to perming. Remember, if you do decide to perm your hair, maintenance can go a long way in keeping your hair healthy. Follow the tips mentioned above to take care of permed hair.
Illustration: Simple And Effective Tips To Take Care Of Your Permed Hair
How often should you wash permed hair? Washing permed hair too frequently can make the permed effect fade pretty quickly. Thus, it is recommended to wash it no more than once a week. Can you use hair oil on permed hair? Yes. You can use hair oil on permed hair. Opt for lightweight hair oils like argan oil or jojoba oil to moisturize your hair. But use them sparingly to avoid weighing down the curls and making the hair look greasy. Can I air-dry permed hair? Yes, you can let your permed hair air-dry naturally after washing. However, to reduce frizz and preserve the structure of your curls, scrunch your hair gently and blot away any excess moisture with a microfiber towel. Can I wash my perm with just water? Yes, you can wash your permed hair with just water. But remember that washing your hair and scalp with water alone may not effectively remove product buildup, oil, and debris. If you decide to use just water, massage your hair gently to loosen any buildup, then use a conditioner to help detangle and hydrate it. What are the best techniques for styling permed hair? Some best practices for styling permed hair include using moisturizing products to keep it fresh-looking. Further, avoiding heat styling tools, opting for wide-tooth combs, and using leave-in conditioners or serums can help maintain curl definition and health.
